Formulating skin care for menopausal women

According to a 2023 survey by Skin Health Alliance, 96% of menopausal women questioned stated that they had experienced skin changes because of the menopause The most common differences included an increase in fine lines and wrinkles, drier and thinner skin and a loss of skin’s elasticity.

The same survey also found that these changes could have an impact on mental wellness, as well as the physical impact, as 43% of menopausal women believed that they had become less attractive; 28% no longer liked looking in the mirror; and 22% felt stressed and/or depressed by the changes happening to their skin. Thus, highlighting a need for efficacious products within this sector of skin care.

Indeed, in recent years, as more beauty and personal care companies focus on diversity and inclusion and venture into once-niche or even ‘taboo’ sectors, there has been an increased focus on beauty ranges for menopausal women, mainly in the skin care and hair care categories.

Based on this surge of interest in skin care for menopausal women, London-based spa brand Elemental Herbology has launched its new Pause & Renew Gel Mask – a gel-texture mask that it has specially designed to help reverse signs of perimenopausal and menopausal skin.

The formulation is based around Traditional Chinese Medicine and blends adaptogens, vitamins and antioxidants including ashwagandha, red clover, and niacinamide to give intense hydration and boost collagen production, which can in turn help to tackle the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

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“Didn’t want to play on women’s emotions”

Elemental Herbology’s head of education said the team felt shocked and sad when it heard the results of the Skin Health Alliance research on the impact the menopause can have on women’s mental well-being.

“We were aware that we didn’t want to play on these women’s emotions but wanted to address the specific skin challenges related to this life stage, while at the same time ensuring that the product had a wider appeal by including ingredients to encourage the healthy functioning of the skin – the largest organ of our body,” she said.

“We recognised that many women experience specific skin concerns during perimenopause and menopause, including increased dryness, reactivity and inflammation and a sudden depletion of collagen,” she continued. “We wanted to create a product that would encourage the skin to function as healthily as possible during this prolonged time of hormonal fluctuation.”

David also noted that although menopause commonly affects skin hydration levels, adult-acne and pigmentation can also become more prominent at this point in a woman’s life.

She also explained that although the mask has been designed for perimenopausal or menopausal skin, anyone can use it as it’s equally good for dry, dehydrated, dull and sensitive skins thanks to its cooling, anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties.

“The gel texture lends itself well to being chilled in the fridge prior to use, which makes it particularly beneficial for anyone contending with hot flashes, sunburn or any other type of increased heat and skin sensitivity,” she added.

Adaptogenic herb ashwagandha

One of the key ingredients in the formulation is the adaptogenic herb, ashwagandha, which has stress-relieving and antioxidant properties to increase collagen production, boost hydration, help reduce inflammation and enhance cell regeneration.

The formula includes red clover to protect skin from oxidative damage, while boosting collagen production and hydration and niacinamide to improve pigmentation, boost radiance, strengthen the skin’s protective barrier.

It also features two trademarked ingredients: Aurafirm, which is derived from fermented oats and a rich source of the lactobacillus bacteria to maintain the healthy functioning of the skin microbiome; and Pentavitin, which is derived from corn kernels that bind to the skin’s natural keratin, forming a moisture barrier that prevents water loss.

Lavender, geranium, frankincense and patchouli essential oils have all been included in the formula too, to add a calming and balancing aroma.

David said that several of the key ingredients in this formula have been tested for their efficacy on skin firmness and plumpness, hydration, skin barrier integrity and collagen synthesis.

“Our research showed that the potent blend of adaptogens, antioxidants and vitamins, combined with a probiotic (Aurafirm) sourced from fermented oats and a super-hydrator (Pentavitin) would be the perfect formula to bring skin challenged by ageing, menopause or dryness and sensitivity back to a state of health and vitality,” she concluded.

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