Skin Benefits, Products To Buy, Does It Work?

You know about hyaluronic acid, and you’ve probably heard all about ceramides. But there’s another powerhouse ingredient quietly doing serious work in your favorite moisturizers: urea.

Found in everything from drugstore classics to prescription treatments, this ingredient is a multitasker that hydrates, exfoliates, and strengthens your skin barrier all at once. Whether you’re battling stubborn patches of dryness, keratosis pilaris, or rough elbows and heels, chances are urea can help—almost instantly.

So what is it?

Urea is a naturally-occurring compound made up of carbon, oxygen, nitrogen, and hydrogen. In skin care, though, it’s mostly lab-made. A chemical reaction between ammonia and carbon dioxide create a pure, stable form of urea that plays a starring role in maintaining the skin’s moisture balance. “At lower percentages, it functions mostly as a humectant, drawing water into the skin to improve hydration,” says Carmen Castilla, MD a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. “At higher concentrations, it also helps gently exfoliate by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells.”

Meet the experts: Carmen Castilla, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. Alexandra Bowles, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology in Cincinnati.

You may be surprised to know that the ingredient has been a heavy hitter in skincare products for a long time—like, decades. If you’re unfamiliar, Dr. Castilla and other top dermatologists share all there is to know.

Why urea deserves more hype

Unlike other moisturizing ingredients you probably know (shea butter, for example), urea doesn’t just sit on the skin’s surface to make it feel nice and soft. “I think of urea as working in two main ways in skincare: as a moisturizer and a mild exfoliator,” says Alexandra Bowles, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology in Cincinnati.

It’s a powerful hydrator

“As a moisturizer, urea draws water into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and smooth. It also supports the skin’s barrier function, which is essential for maintaining overall skin health,” Dr. Bowles explains.

It’s a gentle, yet effective exfoliator

When it comes to exfoliation, urea gently breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to slough them off and reveal fresher, smoother skin underneath—without the irritation that stronger exfoliators (like glycolic or lactic acid) can sometimes cause. It also has soothing properties that can help with skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis, says Dr. Bowles. In a clinical study of patients with mild-moderate seborrheic dermatitis, the use of a shampoo containing urea significantly reduced irritation and itching, plus improved overall hair appearance.

It’s an anti-fungal

Studies suggest urea has anti-fungal and antimicrobial properties, too, which is why it’s often recommended for treating conditions like athlete’s foot. In one study, 10% urea combined with other topical anti-fungal ingredients reduced both treatment duration and clinical response.

How urea works.

Urea is commonly found in trusted drugstore staples like Eucerin and Cetaphil, but also pops up on the ingredient lists of more targeted treatments for specific conditions like cracked heels or keratosis pilaris (KP). “Lower concentrations at around 2 to 5% are often used in everyday moisturizers, providing gentle hydration and skin barrier support,” says Dr. Bowles. At this level, urea primarily acts as a supercharged moisturizer, pulling water into the skin and strengthening the skin barrier.

At higher concentrations of around 10 to 20%, urea’s exfoliating powers become more pronounced. “These concentrations are often found in treatments for very dry, rough skin or conditions like calluses or keratosis pilaris,” says Dr. Bowles.

Is urea safe for all skin types?

Overall, urea is considered safe for most skin types, but how exactly you use it depends on your specific needs. “I find it’s particularly beneficial for people with dry, rough, or flaky skin,” says Dr. Bowles. For those with oily or acne-prone skin, urea can also be a helpful ingredient, but Dr. Bowles recommends choosing a product with a lower concentration to avoid clogged pores. And if you have very sensitive or compromised skin, it’s best to proceed with caution. “If you’re using a product with a higher concentration of urea, it’s a good idea to start slowly and see how your skin responds,” says Dr. Bowles.

And pay attention to the other products you’re using. “Urea is generally compatible with a wide range of other skin care ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and peptides, making it a versatile addition to your routine,” says Dr. Bowles. However, it doesn’t always mix well with stronger exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or retinoids. “This could lead to irritation, especially for sensitive skin,” says Dr. Bowles.

How to Add Urea to Your Routine

Incorporating urea into your skincare depends largely on what you’re hoping to treat:

If you have dry skin…

Urea pulls moisture into the skin and improves barrier function. When using low levels primarily for moisturization, you can use the skincare hero daily (once or twice per day, ideally right after showering to lock in moisture) for mild dryness or to maintain soft, healthy skin.

If you have rough patches or specific skin conditions that need more attention…

At higher concentrations, urea works to soften thickened, rough, or scaly skin—especially helpful for areas like the elbows, knees and feet, and for treating conditions like KP. Because stronger urea formulations are more active, derms typically recommend using them in targeted areas rather than all over the body. Start with once-daily application, monitoring your skin for any signs of sensitivity and adjust as needed.

If you have really stubborn areas…

Concentrations of urea between 20 and 40% are used to soften very thick or calloused skin, especially on the soles of the feet, says Dr. Castilla. Just note: Concentrations this high aren’t recommend on sensitive areas and are typically reserved for body use, as they are too strong for the delicate facial skin, says Dr. Castilla.

Bottom Line: Don’t sleep on urea

While urea may not get as much buzz as trendier ingredients, it’s a tried-and-true hero that shouldn’t be overlooked. Whether you’re dealing with stubborn dryness, rough patches, or skin conditions like KP, this multitasking compound offers a powerful yet gentle solution, thanks to its unique ability to hydrate, exfoliate, and strengthen the skin barrier all at once.